INTRODUCTION:

The skin covers the entire outside surface of the body, which makes it the biggest organ. The dermis, hypodermis, and epidermis are the three basic layers, and each has a completely distinct structure and function. The complex network which makes up the skin acts as the body's first line of defense against infectious agents, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, toxic substances and mechanical trauma. It also regulates the volume of water released into the environment and the temperature. Skin is composedof threelayers i.e. epidermis, dermis and hypodermis.

Skin Pigmentation:

One of the most highly diverse and highly chosen traits in human populations is skin pigmentation, particularly darker skin found nearer the equator and lighter skin found at higher latitudes. Variable exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is thought to produce conflicting selective effects for vitamin D synthesis and folate protection, which in turn causes variable melanin synthesis and global pigmentation differentiation. Differences in skin pigmentation at comparable latitudes and UV exposures suggest that assortative mating, drift, and epistasis are likely among the other evolutionary processes that have influenced skin pigmentation worldwide.¹

Melanogenesis or synthesis of melanin:

Melanogenesis is the process of producing and distributing melanin, takes place by the epidermal units in the skin. A melanocyte surrounded by keratinocytes and regulated by a closed paracrine system makes up these units. The primary element that determines the color of skin, hair, and eyes is melanin.²

There are two different kinds of melanin: pheomelanin, which is a reddish-yellow soluble polymer produced by conjugating glutathione or cysteine, and eumelanin, which is a brown-black or dark insoluble polymer. The most common kind in individuals who have dark skin and hair are eumelanin, which has a higher level of photoprotective effectiveness. Skin tumors are more common among individuals with red hair and skin phototypes I and II, who are also more likely to have pheomelanin.^3,4

Glycoprotein tyrosinase has an intrinsic, transmembrane, and cytoplasmic domain and is located in themelanosome membrane. It is a copper-dependent enzyme that catalyzes the rate-limiting step in the manufacture of melanin, which is the conversion of L-tyrosine to L-DOPA.^5-7

Figure1: Synthesis of two types of Melanin.

Depigmentation:

Depigmentation is the process in which the skin entirely loses pigment and turns white. In another words it reduces the formation of melanin which turns the skin tone from dark to fair.

So, to overcome from the skin pigmentation we made the herbal cream whichhaving a such type ingredients thatwhich helps to reduce pigmentation and makes skin fair.

INGREDIENTS/ MATERIALS:

Papaya pulp:

Figure 2: Papaya Pulp

Biologicalsource: Papain is the dried and purified latex of the green fruits and the leaves of Carica papaya

Family: Caricaceae

Role: Ant wrinkle, cleansing, enzyme action.

Mechanism of Action: Papain, when administered topically, triggers an inflammatory response similar to that caused by allergens by attracting neutrophils, mast cells, and CD3-positive cells as well as inducing a TH2 biased antibody response.⁸

Pomegranate peel:

Figure 3: Pomegranate Peel

Biologicalsource: pomegranate peel derived from the processing of Punica gantaum L.

Family: Punicaceae

Role: Antibacterial activity, brighten the skin

Mechanism of Action: Often considered an agricultural waste product, pomegranate peel is a fantastic source of phytochemicals and antioxidants. Pungenalins, punicalagins, gallo tannins, and gallic acid are a few of the main phytochemicals found in pomegranate peel.⁹

The mechanisms of actions of pomegranate mainly involve nuclear factor erythroid factor2 related factor 2(Nrf2), Nuclear factor KaPPaB (NF-KB), and mitogen activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways.¹⁰

Orangepeel:

Figure 4: Orange Peel

Biological Source: Citrus aurantium Linn.

Family: Rutaceae

source: Orange peel is consisting of fresh and dried outer part of the pericarp of Citrus aurantium Linn.

Role: Antiaging, prevents oxidative strss on your skin cells

Mechanism of Action: The antioxidants in orange peels help combaet toxic free radicals, thus preventing oxidative stress on skin cells. Also, these vital nutrients help fight early signs of ageing like wrinkles, fine lines, dark spots, sagging skin etc.

It makes your skin vibrant and health.^11,12

Liquorice:

Figure 5: Liquorice

Biologicalsource: It consists of peeled and unpeeled roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra Linn.

Role: Helps to brighten the skin and also the itchy and irritated skin.

Mechanism of Action: Glycyrrhizin, the sweet principle of licorice root is a triterpene type saponin that displays antiviral, anti-inflammatory, antitumor and antimicrobial properties.

G. glabra has been traditionally used for promotion of wound healing. Licorice root extracts protect the skin against. Oxidative stress and injuries and its skin whitening agent.^13,15

Aloe vera gel:

Figure 6: Aloe vera gel

Biologicalsource: It is obtained from leaves of aloe Barbadensis miller

Family: Liliaceae

Role: Reduce acne and pimple, induce skin toxicity, moisturizer.

Mechanism of Action: Aloe stimulates fibroblast which produces the collagen and elastin fibres making the skin more elastic and less wrinkled. It also has cohesive effect on the superficial flaking epidermal cells by sticking them together, which soften the skin.

It is suggested that aloe polysaccharides mediate skin protectant effects in damaged skin, induced by internal or other external factors such as radiation.

Aloe polysaccharides may actsas a scavenger for oxygen free radicals including DPPH, alkyl radicals, superoxides.

Aloe polysaccharides may also compete with oxygen to react with nitric oxide, thereby inhibiting the generation of nitrite and peroxynitrite anions that acts as a free radical.^16,17

Turmeric:

Figure 7: Turmeric

Biologicalsource: Turmeric is the dried rhizome of Curcuma longa.

Family: Zingiberaceae

Role: Antibacterial, adds glow to to the face.

MOA: In term of medicinal properties, the plant has a lot of promise. Its anti-inflammatory, cholagogue, hepatoprotective, blood purifying, antioxidant, liver tissue detoxifier and regenerator, antiashthmatic, antitumor, antiprotozoal, stomachic, carminative properties are revealed in literature. It decreases elevated plasma cholesterol levels. Its antiplatelet activity provides the heart and arteries with protection. Its also prevent DNA damage. Curcumin is found in many constituents present in this plant.

The turmeric powder is about 60-70% carbohydrates, 6-13% water, 6-8% protein, 5-10 % fat, 3-7% dietary minerals, 3-7% essential oils, 2-7% dietary fiber, and 1-6% curcuminoids. The diarylheptanoids, a class of various curcuminoids, such as curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and bisdemethoxycurcumin, contain phytochemical components of turmeric.¹⁸ Curcumin accounts for up to 3.14% of assayed commercial turmeric powder samples (the average was 1.51%); curry powder contains much less turmeric powder.¹⁹

FORMULATION TABLE:

Table 1: Formulation table for Herbal Cream

Sr.no.	Ingredients	Quantity	Use
1	Papaya pulp	10 gm	Anti-wrinkle⁸
2	Pomegranate peel	2.5 gm	Improve hyperpigmentation²⁰
3	Orange peel	6.5 gm	Lightening the skin¹¹
4	Licorice	2 gm	Used in improving the skin tone²¹
5	Aloe Vera gel	4.5 gm	Antiaging, emollient²²
6	lanolin	7.5 gm	Emulsifying agent
7	Bicarbonate	1ml	Buffering agent
8	Polyethylene glycol	2 ml	Moisturizer, Humectant
9	Rose oil	2.0ml	Fragrance
10	Turmeric	1gm	Antiseptic, colorant^23-25
11	Methyl paraben	0.028gm	Preservative^23-25
12	Water	Q.S.20 ml	Vehicle

METHODOLOGY:

For preparation of cream, we need to prepare two phases^26,27:

i. Oil phase

ii. Aqueous phase

1- Preparation of oil phase:

Lanoline as an emulsifying agent and polyethylene glycol as a humectant is used in the preparation of oil phase. Lanoline and polyethylene glycol were taken in a beaker and mixed well. This mixture was melted at 70⁰C with continuous stirring.²⁷

2- Preparation of aqueous phase:

Papaya pulp, pomegranate peel powder, orange peel powder, licorice, Turmeric, Aloe vera gel and methyl paraben were taken into another beaker and mixed well and calcium bicarbonate was added to make the quantity sufficient. This mixture was also heated at 70⁰C with continuous stirring.

Aqueous phase to oil phase addition:

At 70⁰C, the aqueous phase was continuously stirred into the oil phase. Now that the transfer was finished, it was allowed to arrive at room temperature while being swirled the entire time. Just before the finished product was transported to the appropriate container, perfume was added last. Then, several physical characteristics of cream were evaluated.²⁸

EVALUATION PARAMETERS:

1- Physical appearance:

a) Color: Brown

b) Odor: Aromatic

c) Texture: Smooth

d) State: Semisolid

e) Appearance: Creamy

2- Washability: Easily washable

3- Phase separation: No phase separation

4- pH: The pH meter was calibrated with the help of standard buffer solution. Weigh 0.5 gm of cream dissolved it in 50.0 ml of distilled water and its pH was measured with the help of digital pH meter.²⁹

pH was found to be: 6-7.

5- Spreadability:

The cream sample was applied between the two glass slides and was compressed between the two glass slides to uniform thickness by placing 100 gm of weight.³⁰

Spreadability was found to be: 2 cm.

6- Homogeneity:

Homogeneity was tested via the visual appearance of the cream. The cream was homogenized.

7- Acid value:

Take 10 gm of the cream dissolved in accurately weighed in 50 ml mixture of the equal volume of alcohol and solvent ether. Then attached the flask with the condenser and reflux it with the slow heating until the sample gets completely dissolved then add 1 ml of phenolphthalein and titrate it with 0.1 N NaOH until it gets faint pink color appears after shaking in 20 seconds.^31-33

8- Saponification value:

Take 2 gm of the substance and reflux it with the 25 ml of 0.5N alcoholic KOH for 30 minutes. Then add 0.1 ml of phenolphthalein as an indicator and titrate it with the 0.1N HCl.^31,32,34

Preparation of 0.5N alcoholic KOH:

N= Number of gram equivalent weight / volume of solution

Molecular weight of KOH=56.11g/mol

Volume of solution=100ml

9- Viscosity:

Viscosity of the cream was determined with the help of Brookfield viscometer at 2, 4, 6, 10, 12, and 20 rpm with the spindle number 63.³⁵

RESULTS:

Table 2: Readings of Viscosity

RPM	Reading	Percentage
2	182100	46.7 %
4	106400	70.9 %
6	73600	73. 6%
10	26820	44.7 %
12	23050	46 %
20	18900	63 %

Table 3: Evaluation Parameters

Parameter	Result
pH	6-7
Spreadability	2 cm
Acid Value	5.4978
Saponification Value	28.05
Washability	Easily Washable
Homogenicity	Homogenized

COMPARATIVE STUDY:

Table 4: Comparisons with Marketed Formulation

Property	Marketed formulation	Herbal Cream
Ingredients	Synthetic	Herbal
Color	White	Brown
Odour	Pleasant	Aromatic
pH	5.6	6
Washability	Washable	Easily washable
Spreadability	Very good	Excellent
Irritancy	Non-irritant	Non-irritant

CONCLUSION:

As per literature we have selected some herbal ingredients for preparation of herbal cream used for depigmentation. The present study is mainly focusing on the general application of the herbal cream for reduction of the melanin which causes pigmentation. We have tested evaluation parameters of cream such as physical appearance, ph, acid value, saponification value, washability, homogenicity and Spreadability.The approach is towards the in-vitro and in-vivo testing of depigmentation activity.

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Received on 30.03.2024 Modified on 22.05.2024

Res. J. Pharmacognosy and Phytochem. 2024; 16(3):191-196.

DOI: 10.52711/0975-4385.2024.00036